Posts Tagged ‘school’

Bead And Jewellery Design School.

Tuesday, May 4th, 2010

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Jewellery Design School Is A Monthly Recurring Connection Site Paying 50% Commission On Initial Payment And Recurring Billings. Weekly Projects Are Sent Automatically To Members With Step-By-Step Instructions And Photographs. Splendid Conversions.
Bead And Jewellery Design School.

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How can i change how people see me at school?

Saturday, March 13th, 2010

Hi. So, I was at school today, and I had never heard this about for myself before, but we were tying knots today for my climbing class. And our teacher was telling us about how to tie daisy chains, and how “all the hippies do this, and some of you might already know how to”. Then everyone looked at me and was like ahah, yeah, like Kristen!
I’m not sure what I did to people see me as a hippie.. I questioned my friend in the class, who says I’m a hippie apparently, and he said that it’s because I smoke alot of pot and do everything naturally, hair, makeup, the way I dress, what I eat, the activities I do. I guess I never really painstaking that to be ”hippie-ish”; it was just stuff I liked to do.
Anyways, I don’t want to change for myself, but I don’t want to be “that hippie girl” to everyone. Is there anything I can do to get rid of my so called “hippie-isk”? I don’t want to change the way I dress too much or what I do, I guess I just need help thinking of how to change my reputation.

I usually wear: neutral colored vnecks, natural jewelry, moccasins, corduroy pants, yoga pants, jean jacket, and other dressier shirts that are boho inspired.

I always saw for myself as someone who dressed boho-ish, not hippie-ish..

I guess you could say I want to dress more boho/indie than hippie.
Any thoughts? :/

I'm eager to hear your comments...
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What to do in middle school if i have no skills?

Thursday, March 11th, 2010

I’m moving to a new school, but every one has tons of skills at this school like tieing knots, beat boxing, hacking, photo shop skills, dancing, one kid has a gun, acting, running and they all have really nice phones.

What are your thoughts on the subject?
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I want to join the sailing club at my school?

Tuesday, January 5th, 2010

I’m sixteen years ancient, and I have a passion for the water and sailing. I read many books about boats, knots, everything there is to know. Now, I live on the east coast in a very nice area of Virginia. I told my dad that in the Summer I would like to take Sailing lessons or join the sailing club at school?

My dad said that…well, it hurt me really. He said that it would be a bunch of rich kids with their own boats and I’d look ridiculous. I can work for it, I’ll pay for it. This is my dream you guys. If I save my money, how much would sailing lessons be? And is this really right?

What are your thoughts on the subject?
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The Evolution of the Old School Tie

Monday, December 21st, 2009

It’s well documented that in 1880, the rowing club at Oxford University’s Exeter College, invented the first school tie. After an emotional win over their rivals, they celebrated by removing their ribbon hat bands from their boater hats and tying them, four-in-hand around their necks. When they prearranged a set of ties, with the colours from their hatbands, they had accidentally made the modern school tie. Schools, clubs, and powerful ties appeared in abundance. Some schools had different ties for various grades, levels of achievement, and for graduates. Thanks to historians and their method of accurate documentation all the original college colours are still available from archived samples and replicate ties can be made to peacefulness.

The four in hand knot used to tie their hat ribbons, which later became one of the most well loved ways to tie a tie has its own unique origin. Coachman who lead a team of two horses en route would take the four reins, two for each horse, and tie them in particular fashion across their hand , thus four reins in hand, or, four in hand. Later the knot and the phrase the coachman used were adapted to neckwear. Two unrelated occurrences made role to a style that survives in tact to this day. And fascinatingly both working class and upper class made equal role, the coachman’s phrase and the university student boating hat band.

Let’s not leave Cambridge University out of the race; they also played a part in establishing an everlasting style, albeit forty five years after the first Oxford school tie. A Cricket Club, founded by a assemble of Cambridge University students in 1845 is believed to have made the first generous colours. They designed a flag of black, bright, orange-red, and gold, symbolizing “out of darkness, through fire, into light.” Blazers, caps, and ties were eventually made in these colours.

It took another one hundred and twenty years before the tie saw any significant change. In the 1920’s a pioneering Paris fashion designer Jean Patou invented the designer tie. He made silk ties from women’s clothing material. Targeted towards women purchasers, his expensive ties were highly successful. In fact in America three out of four ties are bought buy women.

Jesse Langsdorf an American tailor learned that by cutting the tie on the bias of the cloth, the tie would be much more resilient and long- wearing. Cut slightly off bias, the tie would pull off-centre and fall crookedly, but if cut at exactly 45 degrees, the aprons of the tie would drape elegantly, straight down from the knot. He also constructed his ties using three different pieces of silk (the blade, the gusset and the under end) sewn together. He patented his thought and sold it to the world.

Throughout the ages the striped tie has remained a favourite style of men who don’t want to step outside a conventional framework. Didn’t some one once say “style is constant, fashion comes and goes”?

So maybe the next time you knot your favourite Designer ties four in hand around your neck, you’ll appreciate its colourful history. A word of warning, when tieing the knot, don’t’ think too hard about the coachman pulling tight on the reins, ‘four in hand’, you might grip high yourself.

Here you will find a rare collection of handmade silk ties and cufflinksby celebrated British designers including, Patrick McMurray, Timothy Everest, Ian Flaherty, Cressida Bell, Simon Carter, Shane McCoubrey, Neil Pot, Louis Feraud and Michelsons, tie makers since 1937.

What do you think? Please comment below to tell me.
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Fair Wind Sailing School Sailing Lessons: Beginning Sail Trim

Thursday, December 17th, 2009

Sail trim can be one of the splendid mysteries of effectively sailing a vessel propelled solely by the wind. Question someone who has been on a racing vessel, or even just watched a racing ferry, and you are likely to hear how much work sailing is or how the sails need constant adjustment. This view is really incorrect—sail trim can be as hard or as simple as you want to make it. While it may be right that a racing sail boat trying to achieve every last tenth of knot of boat speed does require a honest amount of sail trim adjustment, that is certainly not right for the typical day sailor out for a pleasurable afternoon or even for a cruiser making a passage. In these situations, it is not uncommon to set the sails (and the autopilot for that matter), sit back and delight in the day, the water, the boat and your sailing companions. This article describes for the beginner a simple method of sail trim that can be used to effectively and safely sail a boat on any point of sail without lots of trim work (subsequent articles will address more sophisticated methods of trim that also do not require a lot of work).

To start, you must know your points of sail. The sail trim techniques described here are based on your boat’s relative position to the wind, in other words, your point of sail. Next, we will also assume that at a beginning level you won’t be sailing in strong wind, so for now we won’t discuss techniques to use when the rig is overpowered. We’ll assume you are sailing in light to moderate winds for your boat. We’ll follow a very simple procedure—set the mainsail to a predetermined position and then set the foresail so it is parallel to the mainsail. Done!

Let’s start our trim lessons with the mainsail. First, let’s simplify the sail controls. For now we will leave the main traveler centered on the boat and the boom vang in one position. All our mainsail trim, then, will be with the mainsheet. For our purposes, we will assign three and only three possible sail trim positions for the mainsail. The first is “all the way in” with the boom at the center line of the boat. The second trim position is “all the way out” with the boom as far out as it will go before the mainsail is against the spreader. The final position is “half-way”; midway between the two extreme positions. Those positions are easy to be with you and to do using just the mainsheet. The only question remaining is when to use each position. We’ll use three policy to establish which trim position to use: – Rule One: use the “all the way in” position when you are sailing close-hauled. – Rule Two: use the “all the way out position” when you are sailing decrease than a beam reach (i.e. broad reach or running). – Rule Three: use the “half way” position all the rest of the time (i.e. close reach and beam reach).

That’s all there is to it. No constant tuning or adjusting. Just set once and sail. Using just these three positions and setting the sails just once will keep your boat moving at good clip and allow you to have fun while sailing!

With our mainsail trimmed, now let’s turn our attention to the foresail. We’ll use just two policy to get our foresail into a evenhanded trim position. – Rule One: the curve of the foresail should be parallel to the mainsail. This rule does not require precision—just get it close. With just a little practice you will get quite close – just be sighting between the two sails. – Rule two is even simpler: when you take the mainsail out, take the foresail out too. Conversely, when you pull the mainsail in, sheet in the foresail too. How far, you question? Just follow Rule One—simple!!

Using the above procedure, the beginning sailor can sail reasonably efficiently by setting both sails just once for each point of sail. This takes a splendid deal of mystery out of sail trim and allows for significantly more enjoyment on the water.

Captain Dave Bello is the President of Honest Wind Sailing School, offering sailing lessons and sailing charters in the BVI, US Virgin Islands, Florida and the Chesapeake Bay.
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The Crappie Minnow school: Rigging Minnows For Crappie Fishing

Thursday, December 10th, 2009

Ancient School Crappie Fishing Family Secrets

Crappie Minnow Setups

Crappie are a very unusual species of fish and they like to attack schools of minnows to satisfy their incredible live bait inclination. The following crappie fishing technique will make a small, tight little assemble of minnows, each one with a hook in it. If fished properly this small assemble of minnows can be amazingly successful, and a very productive way of huge your fish basket.

You must get a good rod and reel combo the reel being a small spin cast Variety that accepts 4 to 6lb dia. Test line. The rod needs to be over 8ft long preferably 10ft plus. I personally use a set up that consist of a small spin cast reel that is rated for 6lb test line. The reel is loaded with a braided :fireline that is rated for 10lb test but has a dia. of 4lb test line. My rod is a two piece glide rod 12ft long that I bought from bass pro shop.

Steps To Success The “Crappie Minnow” Ropes Technique

Step#1 Get yourself (3) three small three way swivels that work for crappie fishing.

Step#2 Get yourself some 3 small spinner blades 6 beads. They make brilliant crappie minnow baits.

Step#3 You will need to find some bass or egg sinkers that are 1/4oz. You can find them at any department store fishing tackle area or any community bait shop.

Step#4 Get yourself some 10lb test fire line, this will have the dia. Of 4lb test, now load your spin cast reel.

Step#5 Cut (3) 16” inch pieces of fire line use a Palomar knot to tie on a no1,1/0,2/0 gold Aberdeen crappie hook to each piece of line on one end only. The length needs to end up at approximately 12 inches.

Step#6 Cut (3) 8” inch pieces of fire line, do not tie anything on them at this time. These pieces will be used for spacing between each 3 way swivel, and leader.

Step#7 Release enough fire line out of your rod and reel combo and run it through the eyelets on your rod. Make sure you have enough line extending past the eyelets to work comfortably when you are tying on your crappie fishing rig tackle.

Step#8 Now orient your first three way swivel so when you tie the top perforation to your fire line there is a second perforation approximate 90degs located on the left hand side.

Step#9 Pick up one of the 12” leaders you made in step 5 and slide one bead up the line. Next slide one of the spinner blades up the line behind the first bead. Next, Slide another bead up the line behind the spinner blade. Now, tie the end of the leader without the hook to the free perforation on the 3 way swivel that is on the left side 90degrees from the top.

Step#10 Tie one end of the 8” pieces of fire line you cut in step 6 to the underside perforation of the first 3 way swivel, then tie the other end of the line two your second 3 way swivel. Make sure the open perforation that is 90degrees from the top on the second 3 way swivel is located on the right hand side. After your tying is done, you want to end up with approximately 6” of space between the first and second perforation.

Step#11 Round up (2) of the beads and (1) of the spinner blades from step five, and slide one bead up the 12” inch leader and then slide on a spinner blade spinner blade. Next slide a second bead up the 12” leader behind the spinner blade. Now tie the end opposite the Aberdeen gold crappie hook. And tie it to the 90deg perforation that is on the right hand side.

Step#12 Now pick up one of your 8” connecting pieces of fire line and tie one end to last remaining open perforation of the second three way swivel , then tie the other end to the top perforation of the third three way swivel, but make sure the open perforation 90degs from the top is on the right hand side before you tie. When you have completed the tying process you should have approximately 6 inches between the two eyelets.

Step#13 Pick up the last 12” leader you made in step 5 and slide one bead up the line. Next slide one of the spinner blades up the line behind the first bead. Next, Slide another bead up the line behind the spinner blade. Now, tie the end of the leader without the hook to the free perforation on the third 3 way swivel that is on the right side 90degrees from the top.

Step#14 Tie one end of the 8” pieces of fire line you cut in step 6 to the underside perforation of the third 3 way swivel, then tie the other end of the line too your 1/4oz egg or bass sinker. After your tying is done, you want to end up with approximately 6” of space between the third 3 way swivel and the sinker.

You have Now Completed your crappie fishing live bait rig! Excellent Job!

Mark Fleagle is an Practiced Author At Ezinearticles.com. and has over 30 years of fishing experience who has written 100′s of useful fishing articles. Would you like to max out your catch on your next fishing trip? Blow your fishing buddies out of the water and get your bragging rights today! Also don’t forget to get your free copy of “78 Fishing Discoveries Unleashed” http://www.oldfishinghole.com

Click Here For More Information About crappie fishing rig

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